Gravel Driveways in Eynesbury

Trees are another source of trouble. Leaves and blossom that sit on gravel break down into a fine compost between the stones, which gives seeds an easy place to germinate. If your drive is overhung, a leaf blower or a light rake in autumn makes a noticeable difference by spring.

Even the best built drive will see a few weeds, because seeds blow in and settle in the top layer of stone. The difference is that on a properly built drive they are shallow rooted and easy to remove. A quick hand pull, a hoe or a suitable treatment in spring and early summer is usually all that is needed.

Choosing the stone. Angular gravel of around 14 to 20mm is the best gravel for a driveway that will be driven on, because it locks together and resists rutting. Golden and buff tones suit brick homes, while grey and slate stones sit well with modern finishes. We bring samples so you can compare.

Edging is important for keeping both stones and weeds in check. A firm gravel driveway edging line along lawns and beds stops grass creeping in and stops stones spreading out. Where the drive meets the road, a paved apron keeps loose stones off the pavement.

If you want even less upkeep, self binding gravel compacts into a firm surface with fewer loose stones, and resin bound gives a completely fixed finish. We will explain the pros and cons of each honestly.

What affects the price of a low upkeep gravel drive:

• The depth of the dig and amount of soil removed
• The quality of membrane used
• Grids across parking areas
• Edging along lawns, beds and the road
• The stone type and depth

Simple habits keep a gravel drive looking good: rake every few weeks to level the stone, remove leaves in autumn before they rot into the surface, pull weeds while small and top up the gravel every few years. The pros are good drainage, low cost and a natural look; the cons are a little regular care.